COLLECTIBLE SALT-AND-PEPPER SHAKERS
By: occupant-1

This guide should help take some of the mystery out of collecting what can be considered the 'Gems of the Kitchen Countertop', the lowly salt-and-pepper shakers. Perhaps the best place to start would be to determine if you're a serious collector or just starting out, because there's something for everyone in the world of collectible shakers.

Quality, Quality, Quality...
Although quality and condition are an important factor when considering a collectible, it is perhaps the top issue where salt-and-pepper shakers are concerned. Being such ubiquitous, little objects to start with, a set in an exceptional condition will not only bring top dollar but guarantee a greater return as time goes by. As with most 'rules of thumb', there are some rare exceptions, particularly where issues such as flaws introduced into older materials as they age, or the fading of colors and pigments over time just can't be avoided. Properly stored and/or showcased, salt-and-pepper shakers generally hold up quite well. And remember, salt itself is a corrosive element, so take care NOT to fill or use the shakers if you purchase them for an investment.

Due to their size, shakers are easy to showcase and enjoy. They almost always capture the attention of anyone who sees them, and with such a tremendous assortment of styles, colors, shapes and materials, they often touch upon the fascination and nostalgia in each of us. From the art of miniature sculpture to the whimsy of bygone eras, collectible salt-and-pepper shakers are so much more than just convenient containers for common table condiments - they also stir the shy grins and amusing memories held within each of us. 

Materials and Construction
The materials and manufacturing involved with salt-and-pepper shakers seem almost limitless. Expect to find shakers crafted out of almost anything, from costly crystal and exotic hardwoods to Catalin, Lucite, Melamine, Bandalasta, Linga-Longa (most commonly found in 1950's picnic ware), ceramics, porcelain, clay, and even Beetleware (a light toned material used mostly for plugs and sockets in the 1940's and 1950's).

Mid-century plastics, although often cast heavily enough for durability, can become brittle and discolored if not cared for correctly. They generally exhibit brilliant coloration and were often painted or silk-screened on; decoration processes which often did not stand up well to the test of time. Depending upon the working temperament of the particular material, some seams may be visible (Casting is the term for plastics which start out as a liquid form, while Moulding is a reference to forming a shape using phenol or other 'dry' powders). Some of the more rigid materials were often cast into generic shapes, such as tubes and sheets, which were then formed by carving and drilling. Quite often, these materials produced unique and artistic surfaces with different amounts of marbling and translucency difficult to reproduce in any other medium.


A vintage set of shakers in stainless steel with Bakelite base (with mfg. marks) from Chase - approx. $80

Glass materials were also a popular choice for shakers, with materials like Ruby, Jadeite, Amethyst, and milk glass, which dates back to the Victorian age. The deep, rich red color of Ruby glass was achieved by adding gold to the glass slurry. Amethyst, or 'Black Glass', is often a violet, semi-translucent glass, which appears as a dark, reddish-purple when viewed through a strong light source. Jadeite (or Jadite), a depression-era glass, is opaque and often ranges in color from a very pale green (almost milky) to avocado shades. Veining, or striation, is not uncommon.

A set of vintage milk glass shakers is still quite affordable - approx. $8-$10

Exotic hardwoods and organics are also found in salt-and-pepper shakers. Known for their contrasting grains, zebrawood and rosewood are two good examples of dramatic materials sometimes used in salt and pepper sets. Due to their expense and difficulty to work with (zebrawood is quite dense), these materials are often used as veneers and laminates - although shakers carved completely of exotic woods are available. Other organic materials such as onyx, mother-of-pearl, and even quills and feathers from animals are also used to create collectible, one-of-a-kind shaker sets that often look more like art than kitchen accessories.

(Left) The dramatic grain of zebrawood is both eye-catching and affordable - approx. $50
(Right) Carved ivory adds both an exotic and elegant touch - approx. $60

Art crystal and precious metals are another range of materials used to create salt-and-pepper shakers. And while a set from a top name studio (such as Stuben or Lalique) might demand a price more along the lines of a fine art piece, affordable sets are usually available during limited production runs and are quite often a good investment. Platinum, silver, and gold are the upper-crust standards in the metal range, and shakers made from these materials are generally crafted to be showpieces only, as metals tend to corrode due to many environmental factors and, most notably, silver can be a nuisance to maintain.

(Left) A vintage mid-century Pineda set in silver (hallmarked and signed) - approx. $800
(Right) A set from Fairfax in orchid crystal - approx. $100

Hand made or machine produced, condition and scarcity will still be the motivating factor in determining the price. It's not surprising to discover that a production set of Bob's Big Boy made in Japan during the mid 20th century can command a much higher price than a hand-carved teak and porcupine quill set from Ethiopia.

Age, Rarity and Demand
Since the bulk of salt-and-pepper shaker designs derive from the current social environment, determining the age of a set shouldn't be a daunting task. As a rule of thumb, salt-and-pepper shakers can be generally divided into several self-defining categories:

Advertising

Figural

Animal

Novelty (Cartoon/Story figurine, bobblehead)

Period (Era specific, i.e., Mid Century, Roaring 20's, etc.)

Masters (Salt cellars, i.e., bowls, and pepper mills/grinders)

Souvenir

Perhaps the most recognized category is that of the advertising shakers. Mostly associated with the post-war era, advertising shakers were abundantly produced during those years. From automobiles to television sets, miniature replicas of everyday life were cast and shaped into the common kitchen accoutrements that everyone took for granted and were inscribed with the mantras and mottos that drove the modern industrial world. One of the most popular shaker sets from that category is the gasoline pump set. It's not unusual to see a vintage set in excellent condition bringing upwards of $200 to $300. These clever and collectible pairs have proven that they will only appreciate in value as time goes by.

Ironically, the price of gas pump sets echo the rising cost of fuel today - approx. $80-$100 +

Another interesting category is the novelty category. Popular characters from well-known and beloved stories or cartoons can surprisingly demand a large price. How well known the character is as well as how rare the set may be are factors to consider when making a purchase. If the market is getting a fairly steep price, most certainly the set will continue to gain value over time.

(Left) In demand and in good shape, this Paddington Bear set is quite collectible - approx. $200+
(Right) A set of original Mickey Mouse shakers in great condition - approx. $195

Genre, Era and Social Relevance
Shaker sets themed to represent a certain genre or era usually appeal to a specific kind of collector. Both pre and post war sets might appeal to you if you have a strong interest in history. 

A figural set of  'Black Americana' shakers sells quite well - approx. $85-$110

If you're collecting for investment purposes, you would probably do well to familiarize yourself with the works of studios and foundries such as Fitz & Floyd, Fenton, Weidlich Bros., Gorham, Fostoria, Hamilton, Fiesta, Fairfax, and Currier and Ives, as well as the individual artists and designers of the periods which interest you. Collecting shakers is a great 'generational' hobby to introduce to your children, allowing them to gain an insight into the appreciation of art and the art of collecting. 

Salt-and-pepper shakers, Volumes I-IV by Helene Guarnaccia

Salt-and-pepper shakers Guides by Larry Carey

The Collector's Encyclopedia of Salt & Pepper Shakers by Melva Davern 

If you want to collect shakers from a particular maker or artist, be informed about their branding marks and where to look for them. Not all valuable shakers will be marked, but the more you know, the better your decision will be.

Be sure that the set comes with all of its components, such as plugs and stoppers. Older sets will generally have stoppers manufactured from cork or rubber. Be sure to ask/check about the condition and availability of the stoppers.

Also take the time to document your collection, no matter how small or insignificant it may seem to you. Building a photo catalog can help you keep track of what you own and what it's worth, and it's much easier to do if you start building your catalog when you begin collecting.

VINTAGE PATTERNS: Storage and Dating Information
By: vintage4me2

For pattern storage, I use plastic sleeves and boards I buy at the comic book store. When the pattern comes home to my place, the first thing I do is count and press the pieces.  I put the empty envelope on one side of the cardboard and the pattern pieces on the other side.  This keeps the pattern envelope from crumbling and arrests the stress and strain the pattern pieces can cause.  I make my notes about the pattern at the top of the cardboard.  I usually indicate the price I paid, the date, any missing pieces or damage.  If I have an idea about the date, it goes up there, too.

If an envelope needs repair, tape is the wrong choice because it damages the envelope and pattern pieces so severely.  I use vintage tissue of the same era, which can be found in folding papers included with many patterns. I

use acid-free glue sticks and back the ripped area with the tissue.  I only repair pattern envelopes if the size or other important information is falling away.  Once I have the pattern preserved in the sleeve it goes in my file according to pattern number and company.

Dating these old treasures can be tricky, but here are a few hints I have picked up over the years...

•  McCall went to McCall's in 1951 and for the most part they are dated on the back of the envelope or on the envelope flap. 

•  Simplicity is dated on the instruction sheet on the back bottom corner. A few years in the late 1930s and late 1950s are not dated.

•   If your pattern has an NRA logo on it, that stood for the National Recovery Administration. This logo was printed on patterns from 1933 until 1935 when the National Recovery Administration was declared unconstitutional.

•  Mail order patterns are best dated by the envelope. Some show the subscription expiration just above the name on the front of the envelope.  It might look like 12-10-44, or the stamp might give a clue.  Some of them have things like "Conserve for Uncle Sam" in the instructions, which lets you know that they are from the war. 

PRESERVING ANTIQUE PHOTOS
By: pleaseadoptashelterpet

Preserve those ambrotypes, daguerreotypes, cabinet cards, tintypes, and cdv images for the next 150 years! These photographs have survived many years of storage and handling, but images are delicate, and improper storage or display could damage and even destroy your collection. Protect your valuable "pictures from the past" now, and they may be enjoyed for generations to come. What are the enemies of vintage photographs?

HEAT

Extremes in temperature, either too high or too low, can cause chemical changes that break down the quality of photographic images. Weakness, brittleness, discoloration, wrinkling, cracking, and staining can all result.

MOISTURE

Excessive humidity, or not enough, also breaks down the composition of images. In combination with temperature extremes, moisture can destroy a photo. Paper will deteriorate, mounted images can separate from the card, spotting and staining will occur, and tintypes will bubble, peel and crack. Fungi can also grow, staining and spotting the surface.