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EARLY JEWELRY PLASTICS & TESTING FOR BAKELITE
By: fant-impromptu-iv

Celluloid

household goods, jewelry, etc.  It is similar to Bakelite, in that it cannot be melted or remolded once cast.
Lucite's name began to have more recognition, especially during the 1950's when they invented Acrylic coatings and finish lacquers.  They used the patented name "Lucite" in each of these iventions. Therefore, most vintage jewelry made of thermoplastics, is called "Lucite" due to higher name exposure.  But the familiar terms of acrylic, thermoset plastic, Plexiglas, etc. are synonymous with "Lucite."
Many varieties of jewelry using Lucite, or thermoset plastics, are still found today.  Most common are back-carved pieces, and "jelly bellies" which are highly sought after by collectors.  The pieces are often crystal clear transparent and often set with rhinestones and other gems.

Jelly Belly Turtles

TESTING FOR BAKELITE

There are many testing methods for Bakelite, but not all are recommended.  Most recognized tests are:

•  Friction
•  Hot Water
•  Scrubbing Bubbles
•  Hot Pin
•  409
•  Lemon Juice
•  Simichrome Polish

Friction Test

The friction test is most commonly used when you are at a flea market, yard sale, or antiques store and do not have access to other methods.  You simply rub the piece until your thumb feels hot, and sniff.  Bakelite gives off a very recognizable chemical smell due to the formaldehyde.  In other words, it really stinks.  Do NOT get confused with the smell of attic, or dirt.  The only way I can personally describe it is you feel a "head rush" right between your eyes from the chemicals. This test does not always work, of course.  It greatly depends on how well the piece was kept and stored.  Unfortunately, sometimes this is the only test you have the option of performing.

ot Water
Similar to the friction test, in that you are trying to find the telltale smell of formaldehyde.  You hold a part of the item under very warm water for about 10-15 seconds.  Then smell it!  If the initial response is to grimace, and pull it away from your nose immediately, it is Bakelite!

This is one of the most successful tests for Bakelite, but again, it is not foolproof.  If the piece was newly polished, carved, or is highly dirty, you may get a false negative.  Also, if a non-Bakelite piece has been recently dyed or shellacked, you may get a false positive.  Be aware that glue or adornments could become weak if you get them wet.

Scrubbing Bubbles

Dow Bathroom Cleaner was often suggested for testing for Bakelite.  When a portion of the piece was rubbed with Scrubbing Bubbles, you would get a telltale yellow streak, regardless of the color of Bakelite.  However, this method is highly discouraged, as it has harsh chemicals that strips finish, and can make a nice shiny surface dull and lacking luster.

Hot Pin

This is another test that has been strongly discouraged!  The purpose of a hot-pin test was to take a pin that's tip has become red from a flame, and touch the tip to the piece.  Bakelite won't melt, but there will be a dark, unsightly mark on where the piece was tested.  This greatly decreases the value of the piece.

This test was also preferred to test pieces of Bakelite that appeared to be amber.  Amber gives off a faint pine scent when touched with a hot pin.

Another difficulty of this test is that thermoset plastics also do not melt, which could confuse someone into thinking the item was Bakelite.  Furthermore, if the piece of jewelry was celluloid, not only does this melt, it combusts easily!  You could easily burn yourself with dripping, flaming plastic that will not easily come off your skin or clothing. 

409

The 409 test has become one of the more widely acceptable tests.  It has replaced the scrubbing bubbles testing method.  If you soak a cotton swab in 409, and rub the piece, you will get the telltale yellow mark that ranges from pale canary yellow to more orange/yellow.
The downfall to 409 is a lot of people will confuse DIRT, or dirty pale brown, for yellow and get a false positive.  409 does not strip the finish of the piece, but still always test on the back.  Also, clean the area with mild dish liquid or hand soap and warm water.  Dry with soft cloth.Lemon Juice
Lemon Juice will not test for Bakelite, so to speak.  However, Bakelite was often made to look like coral.  A test to tell if a "coral" piece is plastic or real (and then to resume other tests) is to drop a small bit of lemon juice on it.  If it becomes effervescent, it is *real* coral.  If it does not bubble, resume other testing methods.

Simichrome Polish

Simichrome Polish is generally said to be the "expensive" method of testing for Bakelite.  It is a pale tan-ish pink paste and is highly valued for its polishing qualities.  Not only is it great for polishing metals, it restores finish to Bakelite and other plastics.  You can simply polish the piece, and check the soft cloth.  If it has the yellow, it is Bakelite.  Be careful of the "dirt" false positive, that is also familiar to the 409 test.  If it's not Bakelite, you still have improved the appearance and possibly value of the piece!

Summary

I hope that this guide has showed you some examples of the different types of jewelry plastics as well as the history behind them.  Most importantly, however, I hope you have gathered valuable information on how to check if your pieces are Bakelite. GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Acrylic:  Thermoset plastic material that does not shatter.  Also known as Lucite or Plexiglas.
Amber:  The petrified sap from a prehistoric tree.  May have insects or plant materials in it.  Can range from clear to pale green to dark orange.
Bakelite:  Phenol Formaldehyde Resin invented by Leo H Baekeland in 1909.  Does not melt once cast.
Camphor:  A white transparent waxy crystalline solid with a strong penetrating pungent odor.  Can be used for medicinal purposes as well as embalming.  Some foreign countries use small amounts for candy flavoring, but in large quantities, ingesting camphor can be poisonous and fatal.
Celluloid:   The name of a class of compounds created from nitrocellulose and camphor, plus dyes and other agents.  Celluloid is generally regarded to be the first thermoplastic.  It is easily molded and shaped, there are suggestions that celluloid was first made as an ivory replacement. Celluloid is highly flammable and also easily decomposes, and is no longer widely used.
Collodion:   A solution of nitrocellulose in ether or acetone, sometimes with the addition of alcohols.  Its generic name is pyroxylin solution.  It is toxic and highly flammable.  As this solvent evaporates, it dries to a celluloid-like film.
Coral:  A stationary living organism found in bodies of water.
Effervescent:  Bubbles that occur due to a reaction or absorbing of liquids.
Formaldehyde:  Methanol.  Formaldehyde is actually a gas, but is highly soluble in water.  It is used to kill bacterial, preserve biological specimens, preserve vaccinations, and treat warts.  It is most often used in the production of polymers and other chemicals.
Galalith:  French Bakelite.  Made of milk proteins.  Does not test like Bakelite.
Ivory:  The tusk or bone of an animal.
Lucite:  Dupont's registered name for methyl methacrylate polymer, a thermoset plastic also referred to as acrylic or Plexiglas.  Does not melt after molded.
Nitrocellulose:  Also known as Cellulose Nitrate.  A highly flammable compound formed by nitrating cellulose through exposure to nitric acid or powerful nitrating agent.  Also known as gun cotton.
Phenol:  Also known as carbolic acid.  It is a colorless crystalline solid with a typical sweet tarry odor.
Plexiglas:  Rohm & Haas Chemical Company's registered name for methyl methacrylate, a thermoset plastic also referred to as acrylic or Lucite.  Does not melt after molded.  Does not shatter.
Polymer:   A generic term used to describe a very long molecule consisting of structural and repeating units connected by covalent chemical bonds.
Residue:  A solid substance that remains after evaporating liquid(s).
Solvent:   A liquid that dissolves a solid, liquid or gas, resulting in a solution.
Thermoset Plastic:  A thermoplastic that cannot be remolded or melted after molded and cast.

 

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SMASHING FUN WITH THRIFTED CHINA MOSAICS
By: Jenn Thorson a.k.a. Thrift Shop Romantic

Your thrifted china plates led an interesting life. They may have seen a dozen presidencies, been passed from household to household, and possibly even started out life as a grocery store premium.
Then there was that one unfortunate moment of conflict between you, your plate, and Old Man Gravity..
But don't go to pieces. When life hands you broken china. make a mosaic!
So what CAN you mosaic? Well. what've ya got?
How about a boring glass vase? A terracotta planter? A chair? A patio table? What about a wooden picture frame? A kitchen backsplash? A thrifted mirror? Or a plain glass lampshade? Almost any surface will work for a mosaic project.

And all you'll need is:

Bits of broken china, tile, marbles, stones, or sea glass
Mosaicing adhesive
Tile grout
Item to be mosaiced
Lots of slightly damp paper towels, or a damp cloth or sponge
Mosaicing nippers
Putty knife
Rubber gloves

Start with a clean surface. If you want your mosaic to be more flat in texture, use china pieces that are from the center portion of the plate. For a more textured surface, you might want to include edge pieces or bits of cups and bowls. Just know in advance that the more your mosaic pieces jut out, the more grout you'll need in order to make them look secured in your mosaic.

To mosaic round or curved objects, use smaller pieces of china and tile. This will help the object retain more of its rounded shape.
Lay out your mosaic pieces in a pattern you find pleasing. Use your tile nippers to trim or shape any pieces. Glue each piece of china or glass into the surface of your project, and allow ample time to dry-usually 24 hours.
Then spread your grouting mixture to surround the edges of each mosaic piece, filling in the gaps between pieces using your putty knife, almost as if you were icing a cake. Don't worry if you get a bit of grouting on the surface of your mosaic pieces, because this will be wiped off with a damp cloth. Work in small areas at a time to allow the grout time to stiffen slightly but not completely dry. Wipe off excess grout from your tiles after about 15 minutes to a half hour.

Make sure your project is fully dry before attempting to use it -- or in the case of the stepping stones pictured here, before hefting them to their final spots in the yard.

These stones were made with plain concrete discs from Lowes, thrifted china, salvaged tile, and floral display marbles. But they're only one way mosaics can help you decorate without breaking the bank. Take a wander through your favorite thrift store, and you might just discover some smashing ideas for yourself.

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JADEITE
By: Susan Creech

If you are interested in collecting vintage jadeite, your best bet is to invest in a collector's book so you can identify the vintage pieces.  Some reproductions are almost impossible to tell from the originals unless you have good, detailed photographs for comparison. Other reproductions are called "fantasy items", meaning the item was never produced in the 40's, 50's, or 60's. Many jadeite canisters and shakers fit this category

Jeanette Glass Company

Jadeite was first coined by the Jeannette Glass company and refers to a color of glass, not a company or pattern.  Green glass was melted down with other glass and poured into molds, making each piece somewhat individual as to the colorations. When more green glass was added, the item produced was darker, while most were a soft, milky green. Jeannette and McKee both produced jadeite desirable to collectors today, but some prefer to collect Fire King by the Anchor Hocking Glass Company. Fire King produced many patterns, and jadeite is just one color of glass. Most of the Fire King line was milk white glass with decals.  Today, jadeite green is a popular term for the soft green color.

Jeanette and McKee mainly made kitchen glass. Refrigerator dishes, range sets, and canisters are extremely popular.  Fire King also had jadeite kitchenware and other items for the home. Some companies even made jadeite lamps.  You will need to remember that this type of glass was sold at dime stores and other low-end department stores.  Some pieces were used as advertising or promotions.  It wasn't produced as a high-end glass product, and many have factory imperfections. The glass used was scrap glass, making it very cheap to produce.  This means that when the glass was released from molds, it often produced rough edges.   Restaurant ware was heavier, and thicker molds were used. This glass was used by the military, in diners, schools, and other cafeterias due to the way it held up to heavy use.
You may want to add to your collection by buying reproductions for every day use, or you may want to buy them with the hopes that they may one day be collectible. Fire King introduced a new line of jadeite in 2000 but quickly stopped producing it because it didn't meet the standards of the older glass.
Always place an inexpensive paper towel or other buffer if you must stack plates or cups.  This will avoid any scratching or scuffing.  Don't put your jadeite in the dishwasher as this can dull the finish over time.  Dishwashers today are powerful and can produce etching that will be almost impossible to remove except by a professional.

Fire King did not mark all of their pieces nor did many other companies. Fire King produced pieces for brand name companies as giveaways, for dept stores who did not want the logo displayed, and for other manufacturing companies who preferred their own label. With a little research, you can quickly identify Fire King jadeite patterns and molds.

Items marked Oven Glass are not rare. These are less common than Oven Ware but are still easy to find. Logos that are printed backwards are unusual but not rare. You'll usually find these on pie plates.

One last note:  If an item has a Fire King logo (but remember many aren't marked), it will say Fire King.  An F in a shield is Federal Glass.  A big H with a little A underneath is Hazel Atlas, not Anchor Hocking.  Anchor Hocking uses an anchor in their logo.

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What Are My Comics Worth?
Article courtesy of Heritage Auction Galleries (ha.com)

A Brief History of Comics

Comics historians have split the history of comics into several different ages. The first, the Victorian Age, spans almost the entirety of early American history. The earliest-known American cartoon, published in 1646, belongs in this category, as do the illustrative works of Benjamin Franklin. Victorian Age material is characterized by illustrations without word balloons and, typically, without sequential storytelling.
In the late 19th century, what we think of as the modern comic strip was born with the publication of Richard Outcault's The Yellow Kid (1895), and the Platinum Age began. In the Platinum Age, word balloons and sequential stories become the norm, as did continuing characters. This period is marked by a plethora of comic strip reprint albums, which developed into what we've come to know as the modern comic book.
In 1938, another major step forward occurred, with the publication of Action Comics #1, which not only featured the first collection of all-new material in a comic book, but also boasted the first appearance of Superman. The Golden Age was a magical time for comic books, as superheroes from many different companies fought the Axis during World War II, but, like all good things, it came to an end about 1949, as most of the superhero titles fell victim to changing public tastes and cancellation.
Out of the ashes of the Golden Age, the Atomic Age was born. Less interested in men in tights, now readers eagerly devoured crime and horror comics, particularly the gory favorites published by EC Comics. Indeed, these comics were so over the top that they gained the attention of Senator Estes Kefauver, who examined the so-called link between comics and juvenile delinquency in the famous Senate Hearings of 1954. Unfortunately, public outcry forced the cancellation of the great crime and horror books and, by 1955, the Atomic Age had come to an end.
Looking for the "next big thing", DC Comics Editor-in-Chief Julius Schwartz decided to revive and update the superheroes that had proven so popular a decade earlier, and, with artist Carmine Infantino and writer Gardner Fox, recreated The Flash in the pages of Showcase #4 (1956). A landmark event in the history of comics, this issue paved the way for the re-emergence of the superhero, and thus is considered the beginning of the Silver Age. Ironically, even though DC ushered in the Silver Age, it was rival Marvel Comics that would claim ownership of the period, with the creation of such pop cultural favorites as Spider-Man, The Hulk, The X-Men, Daredevil, The Fantastic Four, and many more. It also marked the rise to prominence of team-supreme Stan Lee and Jack Kirby, considered by many to be the "Lennon and McCartney" of comics. When Kirby left Marvel in 1970 to go to DC, he took the Silver Age with him.
Many consider that Kirby's transition to DC marked the beginning of the Bronze Age of comics, a period marked by the sudden influx of a new generation of creators, with new and innovative ideas. Young guns like Neal Adams, Bernie Wrightson, Mike Kaluta, Steve Englehart, Gerry Conway and Mike Ploog would take the comic art form that they had grown up with and totally transform it, seemingly overnight. The social upheaval that the country was experiencing was mirrored in the comics these young creators were producing. It was an exciting time, when both successes and failures could be equally spectacular.
In 1980, the way comics were distributed changed forever. Before 1980, the concept of a store dedicated to selling comic books was unheard of. Now, with the confidence of a robust economy, comic specialty stores began springing up all over. Now the publishers were free to distribute their books directly to these stores, bypassing the newsstand distributors upon whom they had been dependent for so many years. It was with the advent of "Direct Distribution" that the Modern Age of comics began.
We're still in what many consider the Modern Age. Whether another Age will enter the picture remains to be seen. In terms of value, books from the Modern Age are worth little, if anything, today, as books from 1980 and later were printed and collected in large quantities. In economic terms, the Supply is much, much greater than the Demand for these books with few exceptions. Bronze Age books tend to fare a little better, value-wise, especially those in exceptionally good condition. Some books from this period, including Giant-Sized X-Men #1, X-Men #94 and Incredible Hulk #181, are extremely collectible and can bring thousands of dollars each at auction in high grade.
Books from the Silver Age and before are prized by collectors, especially in top condition, as books from those periods were not considered collectible at the time of their publication. They were regularly folded, spindled, and otherwise mutilated, making it that much harder to find high-grade copies today. Consider that many were also destroyed, thrown away, given to paper drives, or otherwise discarded, and it's easy to see why comics from this vintage are so rare.

How do I Identify my Comics?
Identifying a comic book is not as easy as just looking at the cover. The easiest way to find the exact title, issue number, and publication date for your comic book is to look for the indicia, the block of small type which is usually located inside the front cover or on the first page. Since comic books are usually printed monthly, bi-monthly, or quarterly, and some characters appear in multiple titles, it is necessary to consult the indicia to make sure you get all the correct information.

What Constitutes Valuable?
Comic books: In general, the comics that have the most collectible value are those published between 1938 and 1979. Typically, within that time frame, superhero comics hold the most value, with first appearance or origin issues being the most sought after. Comics from the 1980s and later have little, if any, value today. In the 1980s and early 1990s, the comics industry experienced a speculator boom of collectors who saw potential in an up and coming collectors market. They bought and hoarded large numbers of each issue, not realizing that they were ensuring the worthlessness of the very items they were hoping to profit on. This artificial demand increased comics print runs, making them virtually worthless in the long term. This misuse of the market by collectors and publishers alike led to the virtual collapse of the comic book industry in 1998.

Comic art: Original comic art, the actual original page that an artist prepares for the publication of a comic book, has become a hot collectible over the past two decades. Once considered worthless production detritus, original art was routinely discarded or given away to fortunate fans. In the early 1980s, collectors began to realize that these pieces of art were one-of-a-kind treasures, and an active market was established. Today, original comic and comic strip art can be found hanging in museums such as the Metropolitan in New York City, and the right piece can bring tens of thousands of dollars. Since each piece is a unique work, it is outside the scope of this article to discuss the many factors that go into valuing an original piece of art. You should contact a Heritage Comics representative for more information if you're considering selling comic book or comic strip art.

Should I get my Comic Book Graded?
First, let's look at what is meant by "grading." When buying or selling a comic book, or any collectible, it is important that both parties reach a level of agreement on that collectible's condition, as the condition of an item will, to a great extent, determine it's value. In the past, this could be a difficult proposition, as it was in a seller's best interest for a book to be graded as high as possible, and it was in a buyer's best interest for the same book to be graded as low as possible.
Enter CGC (Comics Guaranty, LLC), a third-party grading service. For a fee, CGC will examine any comic book submitted to them, check it for restoration, render an impartial opinion on that book's condition, assign it a grade, and encase the book in a protective plastic shell, to prevent anyone from tampering with the book once it has been graded. As CGC has no interest in the value of the book (they are neither buyers nor sellers), the grade rendered is truly impartial. This service has done a superb job in promoting consumer confidence, thus reinvigorating the industry as a whole.
With that said, however, it should be understood that not every comic book is a good candidate for third-party grading. A number of factors are involved in deciding whether or not a comic book should be submitted to a grading service such as CGC. First, of course, are condition and value. If the comic in question is not of sufficient value, it is not in your best interest to spend the money to have it certified.
Heritage Comics Auctions grades thousands of comics every year and we have experts on staff to evaluate the conditions and the cost-to-value ratio of sending any book in for authentication. If you have any questions or would like some advice or help with a confidential evaluation of your collection, please call our toll free number at (800) 872-6467

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Cleaning and Caring for Vintage Linens: A Practical Guide
By: Shelly a.k.a. bohobetty

The following is a practical guide to cleaning and caring for the vintage cotton linens that you buy and use frequently. These are not the processes used to preserve museum quality pieces, nor will they insure that you will be able to pass on a piece of exquisite hand-embroidery to your great-grandaughter's niece's son's second wife.



While these are honorable pursuits, taking the steps necessary to carefully preserve vintage textiles are not always practical for the pillowcase your daughter likes to snuggle when she's not feeling well or the tablecloth you like to use every Sunday because you think it matches your pot roast. Instead, these steps will help you take reasonable care of the items you use the most so that they might at least look bright and beautiful for the rest of YOUR life . . . well, provided you don't live past, say, 108!


If you have recently purchased a piece and have not washed it before, the following step can be invaluable. Take a clean white cotton rag, for example an old washcloth or a piece of one of your husbands old white t-shirts, and dampen it with warm water. Gently rub the different dye colors to check for colorfastness. If any color comes off on the rag, stop cleaning! I have had some success soaking items that are not colorfast in a solution of cold water saturated with salt, but this doesn't always work, and some items may run too quickly to prevent damage before the salt solution can work.

*Finally, you may tumble dry the items in your dryer on the low heat setting until they are almost dry.
*Iron them while still slightly damp and you won't need to use starch, but if you wait too long, a little spray starch will work well as long as the items won't be stored for an extended period of time.
*I've had good luck hanging items in a closet when they are not in use--it seems like the folded ones in the linen closet always get messed up when someone is looking for a towel!
* If you plan to store an item for an extended period of time, try rolling it instead of folding it as the fold lines stress the fabric over time.
* Use a soft toothbrush to work stain removers into stains--you'll be surprised how much easier it is to remove stains using a brush!
* It's fine to use starch (or in my case, the much more convenient spray starch) to give a vintage textile extra body--just make sure you leave it out when storing the item for a long time as the starch can weaken fibers and attract bugs!
* Milk (yes, I said milk!) can be used to remove small ink marks from most natural fabrics--just work the milk into the stain, adding more as needed, until the ink disappears and then launder as usual.
* If nothing else works, a weak solution of clorox bleach mixed with baking soda can sometimes be used to remove stains. The baking soda neutralizes some of the damage that the bleach might cause, but this is still a dangerous proposition--use it only as a last ditch effort to save a piece that you might otherwise be forced to throw out! When ironing a vintage piece, keep a small spray bottle of water nearby--use it to dampen places that don't iron well and you can even add a couple of drops of fabric softener to the bottle to lightly scent the fabric.

As I have said so many times before, collecting vintage linens should make you happy. Use them! Over time, they will get stains and small holes--use them anyway! Chances are your great-grandaughter's niece's son's second wife won't like them anyway, but you love them now, so use them!

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CHARITY SPOTLIGHT: DRESS FOR SUCCESS

Mary Ivers is the founder and executive director for Dress for Success Cincinnati, a nonprofit organization that started in New York in 1997. Mary runs Dress for Success as an unpaid volunteer and is ecstatic about the program's growth. The mission of Dress for Success is to promote the economic independence of disadvantaged women by providing professional attire, a network of support, and career development tools to help women thrive in work and in life. Dress for Success serves 140 social service agencies, and it does not receive government funding. To sustain the program, Mary opened a thrift store called 4th Street Boutique in September of 2002, and because of its success, 4th Street Boutique is now considered a model for other thrift stores in the Dress for Success chain. Local agencies refer women to Dress for Success where they are assisted by volunteer personal shoppers who help them choose a free job interview outfit, which includes a suit, shoes, purse, hosiery, and grooming products. Women can return for additional work clothes when they secure a job, and they can earn points to "buy" more clothing by attending seminars conducted by the Professional Women's Group. These seminars help women negotiate the responsibilities, human relations, and etiquette of the business world. They learn everything from how to shake hands and introduce themselves to the proper procedure for calling in sick. The Professional Women's Group is a job-retention and career enhancement program with volunteer-led workshops and seminars - money management, stress management, child care options, career management, taxes - plus networking events and one-on-one coaching. There are about 300 women enrolled and a long list waiting to enroll. Mary sees the Dress for Success goal as much more than just dressing women in need. She believes the greater goal is to strengthen women by helping them balance their lives and become self-reliant. "Hold your head up high, be proud of who you are," Mary says. "Remember self-love. Self-confidence shows and it counts." The women who come to Dress for Success typically face a multitude of problems, including poverty, illness, recidivism and depression. ''They all have tremendous financial burdens,'' Mary says. Some display poor personal hygiene and social skills. Many are on parole. If clients learn nothing else from their Dress For Success experience, Mary hopes that they learn to love themselves because "We work hard to instill that self-worth, to make sure they know they're women of value."

The 4 th Street Boutique is located at 135 West Fourth Street, Cincinnati, Ohio.
and is open to the general public every Tuesday - Saturday
from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Phone: (513)651-3372. Visit their website at http://www.4thstreetboutique.org/

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THRIFTER OF THE MONTH Thrifting for Life by Rebecca Restrepo Visit her blog at Thrifty Goodness

Congratulations to newlyweds Rebecca and Luis Restrepo!

Two women in my family highly influenced my life as a thrifter. My Grandmother always went to the thrift store. She would get a "new" couch every few months. I thought it was the weirdest thing because my mother never went and we had the same old boring couch for years. And then there was my Aunt Sissy. She was my great-great Aunt and quite a fashion plate! She passed on scarves, hats, gloves, belts, you name it! When my Grandmother said I might be able to find some other vintage items at the thrift store, I was hooked. It only got worse from there.
The thrifting days begin! My dear friend Shone and I started "Thrifty Thursday." I picked her up every week on Thursday night and we thrifted. I had the most extensive wardrobe and finally decided that if I wanted to buy something new, I had to get rid of something old. It was a big circle with things flowing in and out, to and from the thrift store. And remember my mother who never went to the thrift store? She's now the best thrifter I know!
I have since honed my thrifting to mostly household items. I will buy an occasional piece of clothing and still donate my unused things regularly. I have been asked what my best thrifted purchase was, and I guess cost-wise it was probably the Le Creuset pan I snagged for $7 and which retails for at least $180. When I look around my house, I see so many thrifted things that get use everyday, like the brown blanket on the back of my sofa, the white lace trimmed towels hanging in the guest bath, the mug I drink my tea from . . . the list is endless.
I love the thrill of the hunt. I love the wonder of "what will I find this time?" And of course I still love all things vintage. I follow a pattern when I shop in thrift stores, as I'm sure most thrifters do. I start in housewares, hit the pillows and linens, and finally end up in furniture and books. Then I go back to housewares in case I missed something. Lately I've been looking for interesting china and real silver. My dream is to have a perfectly mis-matched set.
Thrifting has changed, and you don't see the types of things you used to thanks to auction sites. People just don't donate what they used to and instead decide to sell online. I haven't yet forayed into the eBay arena, but I've considered it. For now I'm content to keep my circle going and hope that somewhere another thrifter will come across my old set of dishes and think they've hit the jackpot. I wouldn't want to spoil that.

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Sagittarius

Even though you normally hate hard work, Sagittarius, you're not minding it much these days since someone you know through a work situation may be planning a visit. Your financial situation looks good and you'll feel that familiar urge to travel. Take your partner along on any vacation you plan, but keep it a surprise as long as you can just to make it extra romantic. Make sure your partner feels included in any long-term financial partnership you're delving into, and don't sign anything until a professional has looked it over.

If an authority figure offers you exactly what you want this month, Pisces, take it, keeping in mind that romantic offers always deserve extra consideration. You might run into someone new a couple of times when you're out doing chores and errands this month, so make sure to put some time into your appearance whenever you leave the house, even if it's just to go out thrifting. You'll have new solutions to old problems that follow former friends, lovers, and acquaintances back into your life, but don't make a commitment to anyone just yet.

If you're not attached, get out there and spend some time being seen this month, Aries, even if you have to get a table for one. You'll have a fated encounter with someone irresistible. Whether you're trying to find someone new or cement a current relationship, there are green lights ahead for you. Work will also keep you busy, and you'll be asked to respond yes or no to the offer you've been considering. Try your best to ignore the pressure. While you're waiting, collect information, read the fine print, and get someone to help you with the legal issues you don't understand. Stay calm by exercising or finding another outlet for your energy.

Reasons to plug in appliances before buying:

1. You'll find the plug. This might seem like a no-brainer, but even Thrift Kitten has come home with an appliance minus the plug.
2. You can be sure the plug has the correct number of prongs and that it's not broken and that the cord is not frayed.

Another obvious one: You'll be able to make sure it works. Even if the appliance looks brand new and it's still in the box with the manual, plug it in anyway. Even if the thrift store has added its own tag to the appliance that says "works" or "checked" with a date, it's still a good idea to do your own testing of the appliance.

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